This plant was given to us as an off-shoot of an office plant, by the contractor that looked after them (and was visiting to tidy them up and replace as necessary). It’s a curious cultivar of ‘Mother-in-law’s tongue’ (or, ‘unspecified parent-in-law’s tongue’, as I believe it’s now more politically correctly called), with dark green, mottled leaves that are roughly cylindrical. The leaves want to splay outward, taking up a lot of space – this is a plant with sharp elbows.
This specimen is in our conservatory, wedged between two window frames to keep it constrained. For some time now it’s been producing what, after an unpromising start, has turned into an impressive flower spike.
The individual, cream-coloured flower tubes have a faint, rather dry and fruity fragrance to them. Apparently the plant is known for being very easy to care for (some sites call it indestructible!) It will take full sun, or shade. In our conservatory it’s in sun all morning, so perhaps it’s this that provoked it to bloom.
This plant, along with some of our others, has suffered an infestation of fungus gnats (also known as sciarid flies). These little blighters are a menace. The tiny grubs live in the compost until they hatch out. Expert advice is that they do little harm, feeding on the microscopic fungi that lives among the compost. But who wants to have clouds of tiny flies in their house? Contrary to expert opinion, I know from first-hand experience they sometimes eat plant roots too – I once had a cactus collapse, and on further investigation discovered it was being consumed from the inside out by wriggling sciarid fly grubs!
Fungus gnats seem to love peat-free compost – presumably because it contains a lot of fungus. A thick layer of gravel on the surface can discourage them. Watering from below helps too, as they seem less likely to lay their eggs in dry compost. You used to be able to get systemic insecticide pins (definitely a tool of last resort), but even those don’t seem to be available now. These insects are ubiquitous outside in the UK, so as soon as you open a window you’re inviting them into your home.
What was planned as an invigorating visit to Bodnant gardens in North Wales, to see glowing stems and frosted seed heads lit up by the low winter sun, turned out to be a rather grey, damp affair with icy rain. Never trust a weather forecast.
It started bright enough, but driving along the A55 – the coast road – we could see heavy cloud and obliterating showers banked up just out to sea. The cloud was beginning to move in as we parked, but the sun was still lighting up the snow-covered Snowdonia hills to the south.
A carpet of golden-yellow leaves beneath a Ginko biloba.
By the time we were through the turnstiles the rain was just starting. Luckily, Bodnant provide umbrellas – nice bright yellow ones that make it look as though the sun’s shining even when it isn’t. For a while, the rain was light, and intermittent, and the sun peeped out very briefly now and then.
Blue hydrangea blooms looking incongruous against the surface of a pond speckled with autumn leaves – I suspect these flowers came when the plant burst back into life after being cut back by the extraordinary heatwave.
Bodnant has a winter garden, full of plants that look good at this time of year. Evergreen Daphne bholua had some flowers, with more to come, though they were too frosted to release any of the scent for which this plant is famous. Colourful stems of Cornus (dogwood) ranged from pale green (C. sericea ‘Flaviramea’), through fiery orange-red C. sanguinea ‘Midwinter Fire’ to dark red C. alba ‘Kesselringii’. There were ghostly white arcs of Rubus cockburnianus, plenty of berries and seed heads, and ethereal, structural remains of grasses from Molinia to Miscanthus to Calamagrostis. Beautifully textured and coloured trunks of deciduous trees included the deep red, burnished Prunus serrula, shining white Betula utilis ‘Jacquemontii’ (Himalayan birch), the coppery peeling bark of Acer griseum (paperbark maple), and, a Snakebark maple that was new to me; Acer x conspicuum ‘Phoenix’, with orange-red trunk and branches.
Opposite the main restaurant, Prunus serrula rise from a thicket of Cornus sanguinea ‘Midwinter Fire’, the leaves of which are rather an insipid green during the growing season, but take on impressive autumn colours (and, as you can see, stay on the plants for a long time).
At Bodnant, there are plenty of evergreens to act as a backdrop to all those bright highlights. Having acid soil, the garden is well-furnished with rhododendrons and camellias, as well as more tender specimens such as Callistemon (bottlebrush) and arbutus unedos (strawberry tree). Pines, both small and large, work particularly well in the winter garden; providing a dense, finely textured background to stems, grasses, trunks and berries, and at Bodnant, they make good use of these.
A group of three Acer x conspicuum ‘Phoenix’ give a splash of colour among evergreens and pale stems. The spidery flowers of the Hamamelis (witch hazel) on the left are getting ready to bloom, and should be out soon.
The sun did come out weakly now and then, as you can see from the pictures, but I didn’t take many photos – I didn’t want the camera to get too wet, and I was counting on the weather clearing later on. But by the time we’d had lunch in the cafe by the garden centre, the rain had set in and it was as dark as dusk, so I never got that low winter sunlight I’d been hoping for. Never mind; there’s always next year!
Plant bare root trees and shrubs Deciduous trees, and some shrubs, can be bought ‘bare-root’ during the dormant season. This is typically a cheaper way to buy plants, because unlike potted plants, which need a lot of care and attention by the nursery (regular potting-on, watering, etc.) these will have been grown out in the field, and are dug up and dispatched direct to the customer. Ornamental trees, fruit trees, fruit bushes (including raspberries) and roses are all supplied bare-root over the winter. When they arrive, you should try to plant them as soon as you can. Soak the roots for an hour or so, and then get them planted. Don’t forget to buy stakes to support any trees you’ve bought. Although if you have very small saplings, they are best planted without stakes).
A selection of roses, delivered bare-rooted in the winter, ready to be soaked in water, and then planted
Move plants This is, technically speaking, bad practice. In an ideal world, we would all place plants in exactly the right position. In reality, it’s easy to get the spacings wrong, or to find that combinations of colours and textures are not working as you’d hoped. I’m ashamed to admit this happens to me more frequently than I’d like. Now is a great time to move plants around, and although it seems like sacrilege to dig up a plant only to move it a few feet, it’s amazing just how much you can get away with (though it’s best to avoid moving trees and shrubs that are too established). Any perennials you dig up to move may be able to be split, and used to fill gaps elsewhere.
Make leaf mould Continue collecting fallen leaves from paths and lawns and adding them to the leaf mould bin (if you’ve made one) or put them in bags (hessian bags are best, but you can use plastic bags – old compost bags, or bin bags – with holes punched into the sides and bottom with a garden fork). Leaves can be left on beds to rot down naturally – just make sure any small plants are not swamped.
Check tree ties If you haven’t done it already, check the ties on any trees that are staked. There are bound to be storms blowing through at this time of year, so it pays to check the stakes are still sound, and the ties are firm, but not too tight.
Weeding A perennial task, but despite the cooler temperatures, weeds are taking advantage of the rain to sprout and grow fast. Hoeing is not so effective in damp conditions, so weeds will need to be pulled or dug out.
Move self-seeded plants There are bound to be some hard frosts soon, but while the weather stays (relatively) mild, you can move self-seeded plants like foxgloves (Digitalis), love-in-a-mist (Nigella) and forget-me-nots (Myosotis) to where you want them.
Self-sown forget-me-nots
Clean the greenhouse Haven’t you cleaned that greenhouse yet? You need to get it done in time to move in any tender plants before the weather gets too cold for them (okay, so I admit I may not get around to this job every year).
Store tender plants As I’m writing this, we still haven’t had any significant frost, and the Dahlias, Cannas, Pelargoniums and the like are all still flowering. But the cold is coming soon. Dahlias are traditionally not brought into storage until the top growth has been blackened by frost. Pelargoniums should definitely be brought under glass before they are hit by frost. Traditionally, Dahlia tubers were stored in dry sand, or even ash from the fire. More recently, dry, spent compost is recommended – though there is the potential for introducing pests and diseases. The other day I saw some advice recommending using shredded paper. I’m going to try that this year, and put all those top secret documents to good use.
Plant some bulbs It’s a good time to plant bulbs such as tulips and alliums, for next season, in pots and in the ground.
Tulipa ‘Ballerina’
Plant for winter interest At this time of year the cold, the damp, the short days and the low light levels can get you down. To cheer yourself up, and if you have the room, why not stick two fingers up to the cost of living crisis and buy a plant that will give you some joy over the winter months? I’ve just bought a witch hazel (Hamamelis x intermedia ‘Jelena’), the branches of which are laden with buds ready to burst into lovely, fragrant, spidery orange flowers any time now.
Canna lilies are beautiful, but a word of warning – watch your pots, because beneath the beauty, cannas have violent tendencies. They multiply by producing new shoots below ground, and this new growth expands with a pressure that plant pots can’t contain. Plastic pots get distorted…
This pot is actually quite old, and I don’t think it will last another season. You can see it’s beginning to split at the bottom. Getting this canna out is likely to be a challenge. It’s ceramic pots you really have to watch. This one first started to crack, and then split apart, and now all that remains is a pile of crocks…
Cannas will usually survive in the ground over winter, particularly if your soil, like mine, isn’t heavy (it helps to mulch them with compost, chipped bark or the like). But they tend to be slow into growth the next year. And a cold winter can kill them. So I prefer to store mine in the greenhouse. I take them out of the pots and pop them into old compost bags…
Don’t let them dry out completely over the winter. They can be potted up into fresh compost next spring, and moved outside when the risk of frost has gone. They make a good show in a pot, but make sure the pot is big enough so they don’t break out of it! They can also be planted directly into the ground, where it helps to improve the soil. In a pot, or in the ground, keep them fed and watered for the best results.
Canna ‘Wyoming’ – with large, dark leaves, and lush orange flowers, this is my favourite variety.
For a plant that is reported as tender, cannas are surprisingly indestructible. Every year I split them to make new plants, and end up with far too many. I tried recycling the extras on the compost heap, but they love the warmth in there, and soon start throwing up new flower spikes! Oh well; of all the problems you could have as a gardener, it doesn’t get better than that…
Plant new trees and shrubs The dormant season – autumn and winter – has always been seen as a good time to plant trees and shrubs. But if the pattern of dry springs and summers experienced over recent years continues, the sooner you get plants in, the better. The soil is still warm, there’s plenty of moisture around, so plants put into the ground now will have a chance of establishing an effective root system before winter.
Liquidambar styraciflua ‘Slender Silhouette’ – planted a few days ago.
Divide perennials Perennials that have finished flowering and have formed decent-sized clumps can be divided now. If the centre sections are woody and unproductive they can be cut out and discarded. Re-set the other pieces where you want them, water them in, and they should be able to establish before the winter.
Use Fallen leaves Autumn leaves should be cleared from lawns and paths (and beds too, if you wish) and can be collected up and turned into leaf mould – either in a purpose made-bin (with wire mesh sides) or in bags (hessian bags are best, but you can use plastic – but punch lots of holes in the sides and bottom with a garden fork). You could leave them on the beds as a soil-improving mulch that will rot down naturally – just make sure any small plants are not swamped.
Lawn Repair Hopefully most lawns will have turned green again by now, but this is traditionally a good time to do remedial work, and after the summer we’ve had, many of them need it. Aeration reduces compaction, and can be done either with an aerator (manual, or powered), or with a garden fork. Push it in as far as you can, wiggle it about a bit, pull back on it to slightly lift the ground, and then repeat across the whole area. This is, I have to say, a job that consumes a lot of time and energy. Scarifying (raking) is good for the lawn too – it gets rid of a lot of the dead material, as well as moss. Any bare patches can be re-seeded.
Check tree ties Bear in mind that tree trunks will have expanded, even during the poor growing season we’ve had. So if you have trees that are staked, you may want to check they aren’t being strangled. If ties are too tight, loosen them a little. A galvanised nail banged through the tie and into the stake (not the tree!) will stop the tie from slipping down.
Weeding A perennial task, but despite the cooler temperatures, weeds are taking advantage of the rain to sprout and grow fast. Hoeing is not so effective in damp conditions, so weeds will need to be pulled or dug out. But…
Look for self-seeded plants …pay attention, because among the weeds will be self-seeded plants you may want to keep. These might be wild flowers such as forget-me-nots and foxgloves – some people may see them as weeds, but many gardeners are happy to have them, as they’re colourful, attractive, and free. Many cultivated perennials, such as Verbena bonariensis, and Gaura, will self seed. And you might even find some surprises. In my garden, Salvia ‘Royal Bumble’ – a choice shrubby plant – has produced a couple of dozen seedlings in the ground around it.
Salvia ‘Royal Bumble’
Clean the greenhouse Yes, I know – you don’t want to hear this, but it’s a good idea to thoroughly clean your greenhouse (if you’re lucky enough to have one). Cleaning the glass benefits the plants by maximising the light coming in. And keeping a clean greenhouse reduces hiding places for pests to over-winter.
Think about wildlife Dead foliage and flower stems of perennials don’t necessarily need to be cut down until next spring. Left where they are, they will provide habitat and food for wildlife over the winter.
Store tender plants Dahlia tubers can be lifted from the ground or removed from pots, cleaned up, and stored in dry material such as compost, sand or wood shavings, in a cool, dry, frost-free place. They don’t need light, so a garage or shed would be fine. It’s usual to wait until the first frosts have blackened the foliage before doing this. You can leave them in the ground, ideally with a thick mulch of compost on top, but there’s a risk they won’t come back next year if we have a cold and wet winter. Cannas, frost-tender salvias (such as Salvia ‘Amistad’), pelargoniums etc. can be brought into the (freshly cleaned!) greenhouse (or a shed or garage, if you don’t have a greenhouse), in pots, ideally before the first frost. So keep an eye on the weather forecast!
Dahlia ‘Mexican Star’
Planting bulbs It’s still a good time to plant bulbs for next season, in pots and in the ground. It isn’t too late to plant early bulbs like snowdrops, crocuses, or the little reticulata irises; or too early to plant later bulbs like alliums. I placed an order with Crocus again this year. Their plants can be expensive, but their prices for bulbs were very reasonable. I ordered ten each of three varieties of tulip, thirty Allium hollandicum ‘Purple Sensation’, and a pack of Iris reticulata. Very restrained!
A freshly planted pot of Iris reticulata ‘Alida’ – these flower in spring and are small and dainty – ideal for displaying on a table, where they can be seen more easily.
One problem I’ve encountered is that it’s impossible to identify where bulbs you planted into the ground in previous years are at this time, so you can end up inadvertently digging these up (and often damaging them), while you attempt to put the new ones in. Monty Don, on Gardeners World, offered a good solution to this problem. He planted his Allium hollandicum bulbs individually into small pots. He will plant them out next year, when bulbs in the ground are showing new growth, so he can avoid damaging them.
Covering pots with mesh, netting, chicken wire etc., until the bulbs start sprouting, will stop rodents digging them up and eating them. Some people do this for bulbs planted into the ground too, but it isn’t always practical.
Sow seed And on the subject of greenhouses… Seeds of some annuals and perennials can be sown now, and kept in the greenhouse, rather than waiting for spring. Sweet peas are a favourite, but things like Ammi major, when sown in autumn, will flower earlier next year. A few weeks ago I sowed some Scabious (Scabiosa atropurpurea ‘Black Knight’), put them on a windowsill inside to germinate, and then moved them to a greenhouse bench to over-winter.
Scabious (Scabiosa atropurpurea ‘Black Knight’) seedlings – germinated on a windowsill inside, then moved to the greenhouse bench.
The summer is over, and it’s getting cold, damp, and dark. But there are still some warmer, brighter days. And the light at this time of year has a special quality. So if you choose your time, you can still enjoy the garden.
For some years now, gardening pundits have been telling us we may need to move towards Mediterranean climate plants in our UK gardens. But this summer has imbued that idea with a powerful sense of urgency.
How many of us haven’t lost plants during this summer’s heatwaves? The true cost will only be known next year, when we will see what comes back, and what doesn’t. The heat wasn’t quite so intense up here in Shropshire. But even here, there were days when it seemed as if we were in Australia, or Arizona. The experts like to tell us what plants are most likely to survive those conditions. But you can’t beat first hand experience on the ground.
Plants in pots will always need to be watered regularly, along with those that haven’t been in long enough to have put down a good root system. But this year, I’ve also had to water some established perennials and shrubs, else they might not have made it through. There were some surprises.
Moisture-loving perennials such as Ligularia and Rodgersia were never going to like the heat. Mine are in a bog garden, but the water level of the pond that feeds it fell so low the boggy area dried out.
Border phlox, unsurprisingly, also suffered, but despite looking very sad, they made it through without being watered. I was surprised that Echinacea and Rudbeckia, which are prairie plants, needed regular watering. The RHS claim Rudbeckia came through well for them (apparently it has deep roots). They also said Eupatorium (which has, I believe, been re-classified as Eutrochium) did well, though it flowered earlier. My Eupatorium only reached 60cm, flowered late, and needed regular watering. Perhaps the difference is in the soil (mine is thin, sandy, dusty soil which drains quickly). The established Helenium got through (I may have watered it once).
Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivantii ‘Goldsturm’ – flowering after the drought (and regular watering)
I may have despaired at the sad state of so many of the plants, but there were successes. Echinops, despite being big, leafy plants, were barely affected (and we had seedlings coming up all over the garden too). Verbascum and Achillea proved to be resilient, as did Verbena bonariensis. Gaura (which is now officially known as Oenothera), continued its campaign to take over the garden. Sedum (now Hylotelephium), being succulents, were able to store enough water in their leaves to get through.
Salvia ‘Royal Bumble’
Salvias, which are Mediterranean plants, were mixed. The perennial blue Salvia guaranitica ‘Blue Ensign’ would have died if I hadn’t watered it regularly, and failed to flower. But shrubby Salvia ‘Royal Bumble’ was undaunted, and has produced masses of flower from June onwards. It’s also self-seeded all around the plant (which is nice).
Iris sibirica, which is supposed to like damp soil, came through as if this year was no different to any other. It flowers early – before the heat struck – but afterwards, the leaves continued unabated. In fact, it clumped up so well I’ve recently had to divide the plants.
Iris sibirica
And last, but not least, Symphyotrichum reliably produced their tall mounds of foliage in the background, and have now erupted into bloom. They are one of my favourite perennials. Aster Munch came through too, but only just.
Symphyotrichums produce a fantastic show of bright daisies when all around them is decay and autumn colours
When it comes to shrubs, Viburnum plicatum ‘Mariesii’ flowered beautifully early on, but by mid-summer was all but dead. Cornus kousa, and the purple hazels (Corylus maxima ‘Purpurea’) were hardly any better. Deciduous Berberis hardly put up a fight before their leaves shrivelled and fell (the sawflies that regularly strip them must have been very disappointed).
Viburnum plicatum f. tomentosum ‘Mariesii’ – flowering before the heatwaves
This Cotinus has been in for a few years now, and hasn’t grown much (perhaps it doesn’t like the soil) but it wasn’t affected by the lack of moisture, or the heat…
Cotinus coggygria – taking on autumn colour
Hydrangeas are renowned for needing a lot of moisture, so it was surprising that Hydrangea ‘Limelight’ got through unscathed, and without additional water. Although it does have some shade – only getting the sun from mid-afternoon.
Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’ The flowers change colour and then stay on the plant over winter. This one has produced a couple of fresh flowers in October.
Predictably, Ceanothus ‘Puget Blue’ was at home in the conditions, flowering and growing on well. Roses don’t generally like it hot and dry. Mine muddled through quite well, though they did have a long break in flowering (all except ‘Munstead Wood’, which kept on producing blooms, albeit rather slowly).
Rosa ‘Munstead Wood’
To mis-quote the late Jimmy Grieves; it’s been a funny old year Saint. Too cold for too long in spring and early summer. Then too hot during summer. And too dry throughout. The plants haven’t known whether they’ve been coming or going. Those whose gardens are predominantly Mediterranean gravel gardens will be feeling pretty smug right now. But for those of us who like a more lush look, it’s been rather stressful. Who knows what next year will bring…
I’ve been writing a monthly gardening tips article for the Whitchurch Business Group website this year (I joined for my garden design business), and it occurred to me that maybe I should post the articles here too. So here goes. Apologies if I’m telling you things you already know (but it might well act as a reminder – something I often need!)
Plant perennials & shrubs
The soil is still warm, and there’s unlikely to be a shortage of moisture, so the roots of plants put in the ground now will have a chance to establish before winter. Bearing in mind how hot and dry this summer has been, consider plants that will withstand drought. Perennials that proved resilient in my garden this year include sedum (Hylotelephium), Echinops, salvias, asters (Symphyotrichum), Yarrow (Achillea), Gaura (now renamed as Oenothera) and Verbena bonariensis.
Many shrubs were badly affected by the drought, but three that performed well are Californian lilac (Ceanothus), smoke bush (Cotinus) and, somewhat surprisingly, a hydrangea – Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’ (though this was in part shade).
Hylotelephium ‘Xenon’ (Sedum to you and me!)
Divide perennials
Established clumps of perennials that have finished flowering can be divided now. Discard any old, woody, unhealthy sections. Re-plant healthy sections, and give away any spares to friends, family or neighbours.
Spring flowering bulbs
Daffs, crocuses, iris, snowdrops and the like can be planted in the ground or into containers now. Buy them from garden centres, or place an order with an on-line supplier. You can order tulips at the same time, but if your soil is heavy, it’s best to wait until November to plant them in the ground, to avoid the bulbs sitting in wet soil for too long before they’re ready to start into growth.
Covering pots with mesh, netting, chicken wire etc., until the bulbs start sprouting, will stop rodents digging them up and eating them.
Hedges…
Can be given their final trim before the onset of winter.
Apples
If you have apple trees, now is harvest time. Different varieties are ready at different times (and it can vary from year to year). Test them by lifting and twisting the fruit – if they come off easily, they’re ready to harvest.
Malus domestica ‘James Grieve’
Think about wildlife
Dead foliage and flower stems of perennials don’t necessarily need to be cut down until next spring. Left standing, they will provide habitat and food for wildlife over the winter.
Lawns
From now, into autumn, is the best time to repair lawns. Re-seed any bare patches. Dips can be repaired by cutting and peeling back the turf, packing with some more soil, and then resetting the turf. Humps (which often form as the result of ant activity), can be dealt with in the same way (but remove some soil, rather than adding more – obviously!)
Plant an Autumn pot
Plants that will have some interest over autumn and winter can be used to make an attractive arrangement in a pot. Use small evergreen shrubs such as skimmia and evergreen euonymus, as well as ferns, ivy, grasses, heucheras, cyclamen, etc. Use plants that will last through winter as well as autumn, and you can add spring-flowering bulbs too.
Collect seeds
There may be more seeds to collect, and when weeding, watch out for plants that have self-seeded. For instance, in my garden I’ve noticed quite a few seedlings of an attractive red salvia called ‘Royal Bumble’.
Salvia ‘Royal Bumble’
Dead-heading
Keep on dead-heading roses, and particularly dahlias. Mine have been poor this year – they really didn’t like the shortage of moisture. But they have picked up a little now, and should keep on flowering until the first frosts.
I said I’d post photos of the Daturas when the flowers were out. And here they are…
This is a clump of four self-sown seeds, from a plant that is supposedly tender. The clump is currently 65cm (just over 2′) tall, by 150cm (5′) across. The individual flowers are 15cm (6″) across…
Perhaps the most astonishing thing about these plants is that despite having germinated and grown in one of the hottest, driest periods this country has experienced, I’ve never once had to water them. Perennials and shrubs you would expect to be drought tolerant have been shrivelling up in our dry, dusty soil, and have needed to be watered regularly to keep them alive. But these Datura have grown from seeds to big, lush plants, apparently oblivious to the lack of water and temperatures that have at times been in the mid thirties.
I think I mentioned that the seed packet said Datura meteloides are half-hardy shrubs that need a minimum temperature of 5C in the winter. Further research suggests they are perennials. From what I’ve read, they can be treated like a Dahlia, so that’s what I plan to do. I’ll let them be cut back by frost, then dig up the roots and see what I’ve got. Hopefully they will have tubers that I can store over winter. If that doesn’t work, I’ll still have the ones in pots indoors and in the greenhouse. And I’ll collect some seed for next year too – there are seed pods forming…
If our summers continue to be this hot and dry, Datura could prove to be the perfect low maintenance annuals – simply scatter the seeds on a bare patch of ground and let them get on with it. Who would have thought exotics could be so easy!
When we buy plants that are not fully mature, or have yet to flower, we’re trusting the nursery to give us the variety they say they’re giving us, without any way of being sure. It’s surprising how many times our trust is misplaced.
Earlier this year I bought two plants of Anemone ‘Honorine Jobert’, from different nurseries, at different times, for a white-themed bed I’m creating in our garden. They have both come into flower now. This one is undoubtedly the white form known as Honorine Jobert…
The other one has turned out to be one of the more common pink forms (the colour is a bit washed out in the photo, but trust me, it’s definitely pink)…
Is it time for an inquiry? I’ve found both plant labels, but they don’t have the nursery names on them. One, I think, was mail order; part of an order for various plants. The other I bought from a nursery in persona personalmente, as it were. The trouble is, I’ve had them for a while, I’ve visited quite a few nurseries and plant fairs this year, and I can’t remember where I bought these plants. I think I know where the mail-order one came from. But I can’t be sure which is which.
Perhaps I should have been more organised, and paid more attention, so that I could go back to the offending nursery with the evidence. But that’s not really what buying plants, and building a garden is all about. So basically, I’ll have to put it down to experience. I’m not giving up on my white bed. I’ll move the offending pink anemone (which is still an attractive flower) to somewhere more appropriate in the garden, and buy one or two more white ones when I can (and hope they turn out to actually be white!)
Or Datura meteloides; a tender plant which is very similar to the better known Brugmansia (commonly known as angels’ trumpets). I bought a packet of Datura seeds a few years ago. They germinated well, and growth was initially good, but all of the plants slowed down (I’ve kept some indoors, and others in an unheated greenhouse) and have never grown to more than about 20cm. But the flowers are spectacular. The buds elongate, and the petals emerge in a whorl…
The whorl opens to a star…
And then, finally you get to see the full trumpet…
The seed packet said that, like Brugmansia, Datura are woody plants – shrubs – but mine seem to die back in winter. Even the two I have indoors mostly died back. Some of last year’s growth survived the winter, but it clung onto life looking sickly and yellow, while new, healthy shoots from the base overtook it.
In researching this post, I discovered some very interesting facts about this plant, particularly here. I can confirm that the leaves are sticky, and do have a very strange smell about them. I wouldn’t call it unpleasant exactly. But whatever you do, don’t lick your fingers after touching it!
It’s a curious co-incidence that Datura meteloides has a synonym of Datura Wrightii, as Wright is my surname. I remember once seeing a cactus (an unpromising, ground-crawling thing) with the name Wrightii, so I guess there must have been a plant collector in that part of the world (North/Central America) who shared my surname.
Apparently D. meteloides (or D. Wrightii) is native to Arizona. Which explains another phenomenon. Some of my plants produced impressive, spiky seed capsules, similar to a conker, which burst open to reveal lovely big, round, black seeds. I must have dropped some in one of the beds, because earlier this summer, seedlings started to appear. They had long seed leaves (which threw me, as the seeds were round) and I couldn’t initially identify them. Worried they might be from a mutant perennial sunflower we made the mistake of planting two years ago, and now can’t get rid of, I pulled the first few out. When more came up I decided to take a chance and see what they turned into. And here they are…
In the eight days since taking this photo they’ve doubled in size, and numerous flower buds are forming. They’ve grown through two heatwaves, in full sun for much of the day, remaining lush and healthy, despite my never having given them a single drop of water. Apparently having evolved in the Arizona desert, I suppose our little hot spells are nothing out of the ordinary for them. But looking ahead to increasingly hot, dry summers here in the UK (more about that next time), these plants could be the ultimate easy to grow, maintenance-free summer bedding – throw the seeds on the ground and watch your beds fill with the most amazing, tropical-looking foliage and flowers. Then again, they could just be the next Himalayan Balsam. Oh my god – what have I done?!
When the flowers are out, I’ll post another photo. This could be amazing!
